Surf

KEITH MALLOY

Ojai, California

Like his younger brother, Dan, and his older brother, Chris, Keith Malloy has been surfing since before he can remember. From distance ocean paddling to big-wave riding to bodysurfing, Keith is at home in the ocean, in almost any discipline, in any corner of the globe. He now spends his time at home in California with his wife, Lauren, raising two young daughters and chasing the local swells.
Where is your favourite place to surf?

 

Home, if I’m on the road; Tahiti!

 

If you could do anything better, what would it be?

 

I could do everything better. My surfing where I want it to be; I want to be able to hold my breath longer for diving, and I want to get two legs more often roping.

  

Who are your heroes?
My heroes are all the unsung legends who were the best at what they did but never got publicity. Also anybody who doesn't have to use a cell phone is my hero.

 

What sound or noise do you love?

 

I love the sound of offshore wind blowing and waves blowing and my kids laughing.

 

 

What would be your day job if you weren’t doing what you are currently doing?

 

Lifeguard

 

If you could bring anybody in the world with you to do what you love (dead or alive), who would it be?

 

I would take my grandfathers surfing; I never got to show them what I love.
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